when surfers come to Hawaii to surf for the first time, i really get excited to take them because i want to show them the right way. not the tourist trap way, but the real surfers experience way. so paddling out to overhead Bowls was the right choice for Kao-chan. but of course i told her the waves were only chest high. i didn’t want her to get nervous. haha.
well, the waves were way overhead and super powerful. it was experts only! here’s one of the boys on a good one.
Matsuo, Tatsuya, and Kope taught this girl really good. Kao-chan’s style was perfect, she was calm, and she surfs really good. no wonder she’s representing Chigasaki for the All Japan Surfing Championships in Miyazaki this year. i was really impressed with her level of surfing and composure…
sorry i lied. there were still some very big waves today. haha… but i love this photo!
Ezekiel Lau paddled out so it was a good time for a photo opportunity.
Kao-chan surfing with the locals all morning long. i’m pretty sure she gained a lot of confidence because today was big and powerful. if you can survive that, you can survive a lot!
once again, i’m very impressed with everything this girl did today. from choosing the right board, to checking the wax, to putting on her leash, to paddling, and to style, she did everything perfectly. all i had to do was coach her into some good waves like this and she did the rest. good job to the Chigasaki boys for teaching Kao-chan very well!
very energetic, very happy, and very stoked on surfing. thank you girl for the wonderful morning! and thank you to the Chigasaki Boys! hope to be surfing with you this Typhoon season!
by the way, i surfed 3 rounds totaling 6.5 hours in the water today. i’m totally burnt so signing off and closing my eyes. goodnight…
