i met with Carter and Kimo on the beach to paddle out for one of the biggest and best sessions ever at Big Rights.  we’ve been doing this for 35 years and many more to come.

this is what surfing is all about.  summer, friends, surf, and good times…

it’s really tricky to get out to Big Right’s because there is no channel.  the only way is to go through the waves and hope you don’t break your board on the way out.

this was my first wave and it was very lovely.  i want to thank my secret photographer on the beach for documenting this historic session.  i felt like i was surfing Backdoor.  i’m sure you will hear the stories of this day for years to come…

Yesterday Once More:  Big Beautiful Rights…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana still BIG! Way overhead and wild.
Diamond Head double overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

today was definitely the most historic day of waves for the South shore.  it was so big that i wanted the girls to experience it to the fullest.  so we paddled out to the biggest and strongest wave in town, which was Bowls.  i didn’t tell them, but “only the craziest paddle out to Bowls on a day like this.”  haha.

do you see those 2 dots outside of the red buoy going over that mountain?  those are my 2 female students.  i couldn’t believe that they even made it out because the waves were HUGE and the channel was closing out.  i would say it was 10′ solid Hawaiian scale so that’s 20′ faces.  

it was big and wild.  this has to be the biggest day in the history of surfing on the South shore.  i’ve never seen the ocean this wild and strong.  there were only 3 bodyboarders when we got out and they were calling the sets 12′, which interprets to 24′ faces!  it was wild!!!

this is the 40 year swell because i’ve been surfing for over 40 years and i’ve never ever seen it this big.  when the girls came in, they were so happy to have survived this historic day.  i was happy they survived it too.  haha.  

i paddled over to Rockpiles and was there all alone.  i caught one of the biggest waves i’ve ever seen at Rockpiles and will probably ever see.  it was so big that after i made the drop i had to dive off because the huge wave was about to explode over my head.  i didn’t know that Rockpiles was ridable when it’s that big, but now i know it is.  

i don’t think i will ever see these kind of big waves with epic conditions again in my lifetime.  i’m super proud of the girls for surviving today and i’m sure they gained a lot of confidence.  

then it was “my time” this afternoon.  paddled out to 8′ Big Right’s with the boys.  we were yelling and screaming the whole session.  i got some of my biggest Big Right’s barrels ever!  ended off the day with a beer and some live Hawaiian music with Carter.  i’m still buzzing…

better go to sleep because tomorrow is coming soon.  i’ll be up from 3am searching for the perfect wave.  goodnight!