Yesterday Once More:  Kimo Gasper Overhead Big Rights!

Good morning 3:40am.
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR SOUTH SHORES!
Ala Moana double overhead and good.
Diamond Head 7′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to SURF!
Have a wonderful day!

we paddled out to Bowls early this morning and it was BIG!  i told my student, “ok, just keep calm and when i say go, you GO!!!”  she paddled for this big set and caught it.  look how big it is!!!

she made the wave!  look how small she is in the white wash.  a couple of the local boys said “that was the wave of the day!”

she was smiling the whole way in to the beach.  it was an amazing morning…

round 2 would be my turn so i went home to take a half nap.  one eye sleeping and dreaming, and the other eye wide awake checking Big Rights.  then i paddled out at the perfect time as the waves got really good.  this is my friend Kimo Gasper on a perfect one.  we both have been surfing this spot since the 1980’s.  it’s crazy how we still love getting barreled after decades of this.

the waves were big and barreling.  just the way i love it.  i got my best barrel of the year so far!  so happy!  when i was paddling in, a surfer that was paddling out said to me “wow, you have the biggest smile on your face.”  i replied “yeah, i can’t help it.  i’m very content right now.” haha.

this is the surf report for tomorrow.  i’ve never seen 18-24′ surf on the South shore in my life.  i can’t wait for the morning!!!  goodnight from one of the happiest surfers in the world!!!

i was waiting in the car again in the Don Quijote parking lot, which happens to be one of the creepiest parking lots in town.

then i see this guy looking into the parked cars for something to steal.  he came and tried to look into my car while i was sitting in the drivers seat.  he was surprised to see me and still had the courage to ask me for money.  of course i said “NO!”

i met this girl a month ago out in the water in Waikiki.  she asked me to teach her how to surf.  first, i told her that her board was too small so i helped her find a board that would suit her better.  we did a lesson and started out with the basics.

now we’re working on style.  it’s crazy that this girl started surfing earlier this year and she got this good.  she’s a very fast learner…

i’ve been teaching this other girl how to surf since the the beginning of the pandemic.  now she’s already searching for the barrel.  another very fast learner…

and i’ve been teaching myself how to ride any size board in any size wave.  it’s all about connecting with your equipment and connecting with yourself.  and of course, connecting with the photographer is important too.  haha.  thank you Neal for the shots!