we paddled out to Bowls early this morning and it was BIG! i told my student, “ok, just keep calm and when i say go, you GO!!!” she paddled for this big set and caught it. look how big it is!!!
she made the wave! look how small she is in the white wash. a couple of the local boys said “that was the wave of the day!”
she was smiling the whole way in to the beach. it was an amazing morning…
round 2 would be my turn so i went home to take a half nap. one eye sleeping and dreaming, and the other eye wide awake checking Big Rights. then i paddled out at the perfect time as the waves got really good. this is my friend Kimo Gasper on a perfect one. we both have been surfing this spot since the 1980’s. it’s crazy how we still love getting barreled after decades of this.
the waves were big and barreling. just the way i love it. i got my best barrel of the year so far! so happy! when i was paddling in, a surfer that was paddling out said to me “wow, you have the biggest smile on your face.” i replied “yeah, i can’t help it. i’m very content right now.” haha.
this is the surf report for tomorrow. i’ve never seen 18-24′ surf on the South shore in my life. i can’t wait for the morning!!! goodnight from one of the happiest surfers in the world!!!
