i got up at 4:30am and was texting my foil buddy till 6:30am. went to get a couple waves at Diamond Head and had a great time. then came home for my tax appointment when Mateus was waiting outside my house and said “unko, i want to go surfing.” i asked him “ok, when?” he said “now!” 
i cancel my tax appointment, throw a board and Mateus in the truck and head to Bowls. there is no way in the world i’m going to miss this opportunity. i took Mateus surfing when he was 1 year old and he hasn’t surfed since then. 
5 years later and now this kid is finally ready. i asked him why he wanted to go surfing today and he said “because my whole family surfs.” haha… this was his first wave in 5 years. look at his face! haha…
after the ride, he was so stoked!!! 
i changed him, then he said “now i’m a surfer. and i’m hungry, can we eat tofu?” haha…
so after taking a 5 year old kid surfing, i went to pick up the 70 year old kid for an evening session. 
Asayama-san being so calm and confident. after surfing all those crazy waves we’ve been surfing, Bowls was way too easy for him. 
i came into the shorebreak and saw something strange under the water. picked it up and now i have a new Casio watch! score! 
remember this fish from yesterday? well, it was swimming in the ocean and now he’s on the dinner table. 
a wonderful healthy and fresh dinner to close the day. thank you Mateus and Asayama-san for making my day so special. i’m so happy and can’t wipe this big smile off my face!!! goodnight boys…
