5-70: A Glass Room

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 walked into this house and noticed something really interesting.  what was that glass door in the corner? OMG!  it’s a sauna in the living room?   not a bad idea considering this is the view.  weird, but smart weird… back to yesterdays special day.  i have a new surf buddy!  thank you Mateus for making me so happy!   i think i traumatized this kid when i took him surfing when he was 1 year old.  and he didn’t trust me at all after that.   haha.  but now, i earned my trust back and surfing just re-entered this kids life.  he can’t wait to go back again… i’m pretty sure he’s going to tell all his friends in school that he went surfing.  that’s all he talks about now.  haha… when i see the word “joy,”  it makes me think about Mateus.  this kid brings me so much joy!   i’m pretty sure this kid is going to be a comedian when he grows up.  he makes me laugh all day long… and when this kid grows up, he’s going to be making some trouble too.  it’s in the blood…  haha.   i took my foil out and tried this different angle with Asayama-san.  much lower so no drone can copy this.  stoked…age is only a number.  it doesn’t matter if you’re 5 or 70.  so long you can enjoy each precious moment, you’re living the dream life.  and if you stay positive, things will only get better…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide