Hawaii in 10 Minutes…

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 i still can’t believe how beautiful it’s been.  after catching the biggest wave in my foiling career, i was smiling all the way home.   and when i got home, i was dreaming about getting an even bigger one.  Summer is right around the corner so i’m going to keep on training for my first foil barrel!   always so happy to see Dr. Hara-san.  we paddled out this morning and a baby turtle popped up right in front of us.  then it was swimming right under us.  so cute, and so calm.   then right as we got out to the lineup, a set came in Hara-san turned around and caught it.  so perfect! then he paddles back out and a beautiful rainbow pops up behind us.  from the time we paddled out to now was only 10 minutes!  a turtle, a wave, and a rainbow in 10 minutes.   only in Hawaii… i felt like surfing a shortboard today so that’s what i did.  so many options but today, this was the right one.   then went to pick up the wonderful Hara-san family and took them to my secret spots.   tapioca milk tea is very popular in Japan now.  long lines of eager teenagers.  instagram is also popular in Japan now.  i’m sure Mila-chan and Kai-chan’s friends are jealous…  haha.. a very happy family from Shimoda.  Dr. Hara-san knows  how to take care of his girls.  i truly respect that!   good to see you guys growing up each and every year.  keep on smiling…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide