still have this new South swell hitting Ala Moana and we were there bright and early. Nakahodo-san on the short board!
i just love surfing early in the morning. watching the sun rising and everybody so happily riding waves. 
check out his photo of Chizu-chan! super cool! 
backside bottom turn! very nice! 
Nakahodo-san is learning a lot about surfboards. and he’s doing that by trying different boards on different days. this is how you become a well rounded surfer. good surfing again Nakahodo-san! 
Megumi-san on the evening sweet treat! 
i knew the waves were coming up. and i knew the tide will be high right before sunset. so this was my chance! i’ve been waiting and training for a day like this. to foil overhead Bowls when it’s barreling and steep was my goal when i first started foiling. so when i saw that big set coming in, i turned around, paddled my hardest, and somehow got my 4’8 board on that wave. i was flying down right as the wave was barreling thick right behind me. i could feel the energy, i could feel the power, and i could feel the danger. somehow i made it without getting hurt or hurting anybody. i haven’t had that kind of excitement for a very long time. i seriously felt like i took off on a 15′ set at Pipeline! haha… can’t wait to go bigger!!!
i was wondering how my face looked like catching that barrel at Bowls. it must have looked something like Mateus’s. haha…
i’m finally taking a couple days off to reconnect with family, friends, and nature. so by this afternoon, i’ll be playing with the horses and barbecuing some grass fed beef on a BBQ right on the beach! 
“Kanikapila” means to get together and play music. this is what people do on Molokai and it is the coolest sounds to hear. instruments and vocals with lots of Aloha coming straight from the heart. i don’t want to miss this either so better get going. it’s my turn to “slow down.” haha…
