Big Sesame Balls!

185

another gorgeous sunset in Honolulu…

i’ve coached Aoi-kun for a few years.   now he’s growing up and getting better on his own.  so busy in school so hardly in the ocean.  so to see him paddle out with confidence, and watch him take off on this beautiful wave was cool.   i kept quiet and just watched to see what this kid was going to do on this perfect wave.

then from behind, i see his whole board and fins flying out.  big sprays too and i was wondering if he made it?  and yes, he did!  i paddled back out with the biggest smile on my face.  and i was hoping everyone saw it.  haha…

back to Dr. Hara-san yesterday.  cool take off and cool rides.

i just love this angle.  it shows you what us surfers see as we’re riding a wave sent by Mother Nature.

and since i didn’t have my foil, i stood tall on the top of the wave and shot down like a drone.  came out pretty cool!

then to my favorite dimsum at Chinatown.

the sesame balls with azuki beans surprises everyone i take there.  even 10 year old Kai-chan was surprised.  haha…

had a great conversation.  Mili-chan is writing a thesis paper on the topic of Japanese/Americans.  so she asked me a few interesting questions.  that topic always reminds me of my Grandparents and whenever i get reminded of my Grandparents, i’m a very happy man!   thank you Dr. Hara-san, Mili-chan, Kyoko-san, and Kai-chan for these amazing years of growth.  always a treat to see you guys…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide