Highlight: A Billion Stars

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 i see this all the time at Bowls.  there is a shallow reef in front of the buoy that breaks when the waves get big.  that’s the reason they put the red buoy out there and you’re actually supposed to go around it.  so when people try to take the shortcut, a wave that comes out of nowhere can hit you from behind.  after this canoe flipped, the first thing i thought was if everybody was alright.  so i paddled up to the most calm guy and asked how many people are on the canoe.  he said 5.  i counted 5 heads so that was a relief.  after watching this video, any one of them could have knocked out and been underwater.  even a surfer could have been knocked out.  so the safest thing to do is to go around the buoy!   now i’m officially on “slow down” lifestyle.  it’s impossible to live the fast life here… and nature will slow you down and make you realize what’s surrounding you. guess what we had for breakfast?  yup, pizza!!!  it was the first time in my life…last nights trip into darkness was the highlight so far.  we pulled up into the middle of the mountain where it was pitch dark.  looked up and seen a billion stars filling up the sky.  it was freaking amazing!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide