Aussie Daylight Savings and Jellyfish Stings

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 ever since i arrived on the Gold Coast, i’ve been so confused about the time.  Snapper Rocks is right on the time zone line so one side of the street is different time from the other.   add in jet lag and i’m so confused! pulled up early this morning and Seth was warming up for another superheat.  it was once again down to the wire as we were all nervous.  how in the world did this kid learn to be so calm?  being the heavy underdog and having to preform in front of thousands on the beach and millions online is crazy.   i would throw up.  haha… even after the underdog Seth wins, he’s not that really excited.  i don’t think this kid really knows what he’s accomplishing each day.  he’s freaking already in the quarterfinals!  only 8 of the worlds best surfers remain…  i think Seth has the biggest support group on the beach.  so stoked to see everybody cheering him on.  back to the food here.  it’s amazing!  then it was Kelia’s turn to surf the exhibition heat at Snapper Rocks this afternoon.  it was so cool to see her so gracefully and stylish riding the perfect waves.   in Australia, you better cross the street in a crosswalk.  or if you forget like how i did last night, you will get run over for sure.  last night was the closest i’ve ever came to be hit by a speeding car.  if i didn’t jump in the last minute, i would have been gone forever.   and if you get bit by the most painful jellyfish stings, you better be ready for some big swelling.   the side of my hip is so swollen that i could shape you a heart.  haha..anyway, i’m sleeping on the balcony on the 17th floor overlooking the ocean right now.  as i watch the twinkling stars, i’m really looking forward to finals day tomorrow.  Go-Seth!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide