#5

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 having a blast with Seth.  just watching him grow up all these years into a fine young man.  well respected, and well respectful.  i can’t believe he’s the #5 top surfer in the World now!!! getting ready for his big quarter final heat today.  unfortunately he didn’t win it, but this experience will make him even stronger.  and that’s pretty scary because this kid is still young and now he knows he can beat the best.  thank you Joe for the photo. there is no other surfer here at the contest that attracts more kids than Seth.   Seth loves kids and i think the kids can feel that.  you should have seen them lining up for his photo and autograph.  and he never turned a single kid down.  so cute. and no other surfer at the contest has such a big support group.  these are some of Seth’s best of friends. and hanging out with them is fun.  makes me feel young and makes me realize how important supporting your friend is. and want to thank Kelia for preparing us the best dinners.  this girl was working hard in the kitchen and her meals turned out to be the best of the trip so far. this is her specialty salmon dish before it goes in the oven.  it was delicious! and want to thank Ilima for preparing the other healthy dishes.  fueling the boys with lots of vitamins. Australia supports surfing.  you can actually take a surfboard on the bus!  i wish they would allow that in Hawaii.   it makes you wonder… want to thank Matt for setting me up with foils and boards everyday on this trip.  we’re having the time of our lives and the foil has made me another wonderful friend!  went to foil with Tahitian pro surfer Michael Bourez.   it was just the 2 of us foilers along with the other 100 surfers out.  guess who had the most fun?  yup, the 2 of us!

contest is over so it’s time to relax and enjoy the rest of my trip.  FREEDOM!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide