Into the Hawaiian Wild…

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 it was so weird when i went to Bowls yesterday morning.  i was sitting on the beach and saw a small Uhu swim onto the sand.  it looked like it was dying and struggling to take a breath.   so i walked up to it and was going to caress it back into the ocean.   then it looked at me and started to flap its flippers.   i think he came to the beach to take a nap?  really?   then it came back to me and looked at me in the eye again.   it was so weird because i thought it was trying to tell me something.   then i walked and guided it out to the deeper part and it swam gracefully away.  that was a first time for me to see something like that.  so weird, but so beautifully weird… speaking of nature.  i think it’s about time for another boat trip.  i miss just jumping on Mayuki with some friends and exploring the Hawaiian islands.  especially on calm days like this… then pulling up to the most remote areas.  you won’t find a single soul around for miles and miles.  it’s pretty much just you and Mother Nature. then jumping in and catching dinner.  perfect Kumu for the steamer.   then going to the land and connecting with some of the most beautiful animals on the planet.   had fun in the big city of Coolangatta too!  just hanging out and meeting new people was cool.  here we hitchhiked a ride to the beach.   our first day was all about surfing.  we just wanted to jump into the ocean!   Tony Moniz at Snappers Rocks.  or should i say, on Snapper Rocks… people ask me where do i get my craziness from?  yeah, Tony has a lot to do with that.  ever since i met him, he taught me what “no fear” was all about.   i was laughing so loud watching him surf on the Snapper Rocks.  i felt sorry for the soft top surfboard he rented.  haha…day 1 in Australia was all about surfing until we passed by the one and only foil shop in the world.  from then, surfing was forgotten, foiling was remembered.   Tony and i were like 2 little kids from then on…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide