Ted’s Belly

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 all you need is a super low tide like this morning, then the waves will break no matter what.  in fact, there were lots of waves breaking  so lots of rides for everybody.   Nao-san catches more waves than anyone on any day.  i hope i’m not spoiling her.  haha.  and she knows that if she stays close to me, she will get the wave of the day!   here it is!   and i’m trying to get my own wave of the day too.  haha.  thank you for the wonderful morning Nao-san!   then straight off the airplane, here comes Dr. Ryu-san again!   it was once again perfect this afternoon!   want to say hello to the wife and kids in Japan.  i’ll make sure Daddy has a great time!   perfect surfing and perfect Hawaii.  a great combo!   thank you Ryu-san for the pure stoke!  Naoka came to my house last night with a Ted’s Bakery Pie.  i picked it up and couldn’t believe how heavy it was!  so i weighted it and it was 3.2lbs or 1.5kilos.  i felt fat just thinking about it.  but these pies are hard to resist so i had to eat it.  thank you Naoka for my Ted’s Belly!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide