See you in Bali!

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 check out this cool photo Nao-san took the other day at Jurassic Park… check out this cool photo i took this morning at Bowls.  and check out another cool photo i took this morning at Bowls.  good to see the morning crew looking so happy to see me.  haha… took this photo outside my house.   and this one too.  my little darling Kaira…

i came home from work in the evening, put my boards away, then straight back out of my house to meet Carter down at a bar to watch Seth’s heat!  both of us wouldn’t miss it so why not watch it together?   Seth was losing in the last minutes of the heat.  he needed another score so when this wave came, it was nerve-racking!!!  if he falls, he loses.  if he makes it, maybe he advances… with 1 minute remaining and still waiting for his score, Seth stayed calm.  how does he do it??? then with 24 seconds left, Seth was still calm but Uncle Rainos and Papa Tony were stressing!  i’m glad i wasn’t there because i’d be biting off my fingers…  in the end, Seth got the score!!!   it was total relief…

i text Seth right after, “You surfed a really smart heat.  Congratulations!  Just keep doing your thing and have fun at the same time.  See you in Bali!”

he replied, “Thanks Uncle!  See you in Bali!”

so yeah, i guess I’m going to Bali next month for the next WCT Event!!!!  yeah!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide