Adaptation: Palolo Mega House Curse

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so happy to see Kelia still in Australia supporting her little brother Seth.  it’s Seth’s first time in Bells and he surfed it like he’s been there before.  this kid knows how to adapt to location, pressure, and surfing with the worlds best.  i’m so proud of him!

Dr. Ryu-san’s adapting to Hawaii pretty well.  taking off more comfortably, popping up faster, and riding it till the end.

i’m pretty sure he caught over 20 waves this morning.

good job again keeping calm and enjoying the moment…

Nao-san started off short boarding.  then after a few nice rides, she used my longboard.

and she adapted wonderfully.  she ended up riding so many good waves after that.  then i was stuck on her short board getting left behind.  haha.

yeah, sometimes it’s good to short, long, and what ever it takes to have an amazing day.  good job for adapting to change…

exactly 2 weeks ago, i took a walk up my street.  i wanted to see the damage as i heard it’s getting worst by the day.

and yeah, there seems to be a big sink hole underground that is sucking up the houses.

imagine being the owner of this house?  the Government gives you half the value of the house and tells you to move out.

and you won’t believe that there are people actually living in this house!!!  omg!

then next door is this newly built “mega house.”  in fact, they just finished building it.

now the foundation is caving in.  in a few more weeks, i wouldn’t be surprised if this house falls down.  i actually took a walk up there again today and it’s much worst than this.   updated photos coming tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide