this morning, i’ve been teaching Dr. Ryu-san how to turn. he’s figured it out and is turning super fine.
super low tide this morning so no room for mistakes. one fall equals one hit on the reef. then taking back a Hawaiian reef tattoo back to Japan. haha…
it’s been beautiful, and it’s been super fun!
Nao-san surfing this afternoon. perfect style and perfect rides. i’ve been teaching her how to enjoy the moment. just like this!
i like riding along the side and yelling. look forward, turn, bend your knees, smile! haha…
while we were out this afternoon, a couple of kids came out. this girl was ripping on a very nice longboard. i asked her how she got it. she said somebody gave her Kelia Moniz’s old board. that’s what i thought because that board looked so familiar.
then this 9 year old kid paddles out to the lineup. i was watching him closely and thought how he reminded me of Seth when he was that age. super calm, super comfortable, and super confident. i pointed my camera at him when he took off on this beautiful wave.
then he puts both hands behind his back and gives me the “style master” pose. it was hilarious! this kid belongs in the water, and maybe a future WCT surfer too? we shall see…
