Saying Goodbye…

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 it was Dr. Ryu-san’s last day for Boot Camp.  good to see everything coming together for his last day in Hawaii.  perfect rides and perfect style.  super cool!   one of his last waves of the day.  then it was off to the airport for a happy journey back to Japan.  thank you Dr. Ryu-san for the wonderful time.  you surfed super good and it felt so good to watch you loving the ocean so much… exactly one year ago, my life has changed.  i lost someone so precious to me.  so precious that i didn’t want to talk about, think about it, or even believe it.  it was some sort of denial and the hope of him just walking back into my life.  one of the longest years in my life to reflect on.  sometimes so sad, sometime so lonely, and sometimes so lost.  so many nights i wanted to wake up from this bad dream…today was the day i could finally say my formal goodbye.  a goodbye to someone who changed my life, a goodbye to someone i highly respected, and a goodbye to someone that i will cherish in my heart forever.  from today, we share the same ocean, we share the same waves, and we share the same Hawaii.   Goodbye my friend…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide