opps, i forgot to post this last night. here it is!!!!
so happy to surf with Oshima-san again! this man always makes me happy! 
we just laugh and laugh at each other. in this particular case, i’m laughing because look how stoked he is! nice style Oshima-san! 
and get ready for Boot Camp Day 2 tomorrow morning! waves should be super good again! 
when the waves get big, i tell everyone to throw their board and dive under. but when you dive, make sure you don’t dive too deep or you might hit your face on the reef. scary! 
then went back out this afternoon with the boys. glassy conditions and perfect waves. just like Indonesia! 
when John John Florence won the Bells contest, Seth was one of the first ones down to the beach to congratulate him. waving the Hawaiian flag very proudly and showing his support for his fellow surfer from Hawaii. that’s the kind of kid Seth is. this is heart, and this is respect. one proud Hawaiian! 
Seth flew back home this morning and went straight to surf Bowls. i heard people in the parking lot saying “Seth is out!.” haha. the boy is a superstar! ranked #7 in the whole wide world!!!
Mateus was watching Seth’s heats too and cheering him on. i asked Mateus if he wants to be like Seth and he said “yes, i want to surf like Seth.” you’re on the right track buddy…
check out this monster house in Kalihi. there are some of these popping up around my neighborhood too. all the neighbors are pissed! the Chinese buy the property, demolish the house, build this monster house, then rent it out to make money and money. they think it’s business, but us locals think it’s greed. and it’s also illegal. where once a cozy 1 story 2 bedroom house once existed, it’s been replaced by this ugly 6 story 20 bedroom house. so sad to see what people from other countries are doing to our island…
