by looking at his photo, you would think the waves were perfect today. BUT, it was the total opposite. it was the most crazy stormy conditions but Kimura-san making it look super good.
i was like a Sargent yelling at his Soldier. PADDLE!!! PADDLE!!! GO!!! GO!!! it was the craziest 2 hour session ever!
i’d say there were 100 waves per minutes coming right at us. add the rain and wind, maybe that’s why nobody else was out on this Saturday morning. haha. Kimura-san had to through 500 waves this morning. i’m sure he’ll be sleeping well tonight.
when the rain came, it was so hard and windy that it was stinging my face. i love days like this because only the strong survive!
i would say this was like typhoon conditions. it was Kimura-san’s first time in conditions like this, but now he knows how to surf it. nobody in Japan and Hawaii would surf today, but we aren’t nobody. we know how to turn the worst into the best…
and to have the ocean all to yourself, you would never think you were in Hawaii during Golden Week!
this is freaking beautiful!
there is no where else i’d rather be this morning. it was man vs. nature. Kimura-san became a stronger surfer today. after this, everything will be easy for him.
see that kite surfer in the back? the wind has to be over 30mph or the kite surfers can’t fly their kite. so imagine that wind with the rain and the wildness. but Kimura-san was super calm as he rode right past me with no problem. one mistake, i’d be going to the hospital. thank you for the wonderful day and for not running me over! haha…
