passed by Diamond Head at 6:30am this morning and couldn’t pass up this epic day! the parking was already full but i would have waited forever. 
yes, Diamond Head has been as good as it gets this past week. but things will change as the trade winds come back tomorrow. back to junky conditions so look elsewhere. 
good or junky conditions doesn’t matter for us foilers. so long as there is a knee high wave, we can fly like we’re on a 20′ wave at Waimea Bay. 
little by little i’m getting higher in the lip. i feel like i’m totally surfing now. it’s the greatest surfing feeling i ever felt in my life! my goal is to get above the lip with my foil flying out the back. that’s going to feel so good!
so stoked to see Jun Jo out there ripping today. we’ve been friends since the early 90’s and hung out in Japan more than a few many times. we had the craziest experiences and did things that will make you laugh out loud. haha. 
then went to pick up Mimoto-san for a super good surf at Bowls. waves were perfect and so was his surfing. 
this was Mimoto-san’s 2nd time surfing and he was doing it all by himself. i was on the side enjoying his rides…
great job Mimoto-san! you’re officially a surfer from today! congratulations….
good to see Brittney out surfing the perfect Rockpiles lefts. this girl swam the Molokai channel so lots of respect for her. yes, she swam it!
