good morning. 6:45am on this beautiful sunny wednesday morning. small waves around the island. waist high at bowls with 6 guys out. looks pretty clean. got a lot of things to do today so i better eat my cereal and get out of here. my eye is feeling better but it’s still bloodshot red. i can’t wait until i get back to normal. have a nice day…
**another youtube from indonesia. watch how the waves can change so fast in indonesia. low tide can be flat, but when the tide swings and starts to come up, so do the waves. i watched this spot go from knee high to hawaiian 6′ in less than 2 hours. shallow reef? yes. barrels? yes. dangerous? yes. can get the best wave of your life? yes, yes, yes. i’ve been traveling and surfing for so long, gotten barrels everywhere around the world. but on this past trip, i got the best and longest backhand no grab rail barrel of my life. and i’m still alive to talk about it. that’s the part of traveling. it only gets better… check out this super secret spot that only a handful of people in the world know about. and for the crew i went with, we all agreed to keep it that way. a secret….
