opps, forgot to post this from the other day. never too late. haha. here it is…
so happy to surf with Fujita-san today. he’s from Wakayama and just got married yesterday in Hawaii! his wife let him spend the whole day with me so i told him “wow, you’re wife is pretty cool to let you surf all day the day after your wedding!” he said “yes, i’m lucky…” and even more lucky because he rode over 40 waves today! Toda-san has a pretty cool wife too because this guy gets to buy all kinds of toys. and surf in Hawaii. haha… i saw these 2 Hawaiian girls in the lineup today. they were talking to each other in Hawaiian! i was so impressed!!!! Aloha girls! omg, i’m so happy to see David back in the water surfing! this man almost lost his life last year and now he’s back. any man with a second chance at life is a very lucky man. especially being able to do this… Fujita-san made some adjustments in his surfing and now is surfing 10x better. all that happened in just a single session. good job Fujita-san. you surfed super good today. wish you and your very kind wife a happy life ahead. a very local loco moco can make any first timer to Hawaii very happy! and make me so happy too! we looked at Diamond Head and decided that we didn’t want to do that much paddling. so we ended up at Bowls in the afternoon. little paddling, lots of waves, and very happy married man! it was a wonderful day!!!