Look Forward and Never Give Up!

291

 i’ve been surfing Big Rights with Donald for the past 30 years.  i know the kind of waves he likes and i know what he’s looking for.  so i invite him for his first foiling session at Bowls.  i already knew he was going to the peak to catch the biggest wave possible.  it’s in the blood and that’s why we get along so well.  haha.   i told him he should get a small one in the inside before he goes to the outside.  but of course, he didn’t listen.  it’s like someone took a leash off a wild dog in the park.  haha.   wherever Donald surfs, he goes straight to the peak and waits for the biggest and best wave.  that’s what i do too so we’re always talking story and taking turns.   our dream is to get big barrels at Big Right’s so all we’re doing is practicing now.  maybe our dream will come true this Summer?   OMG, it’s amazing how good Toda-san got in just one day!!!  2 days ago, he was falling on every wave and getting pissed off.  now, he’s riding high and loving life!   i told Toda-san “finally!!!!”  now life will only get better for this newborn foiler! if it wasn’t for the foil, we wouldn’t be smiling like this after a chest high day at Bowls.  we were the happiest 3 kids in the whole ocean!  haha…  Donald is an airplane pilot so he already knew how to fly, Toda-san flies drones so he already knew the view, and i’m the virgin of all because i’ve never experienced this kind of excitement ever!   thanks boys for the amazing time!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide