Ocean Changes…

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 yesterday i checked Diamond Head at 8:30am and it was super junky.  so i passed it up and relaxed instead.  went back at 12pm to check it again and it was going off.  called up some friends and headed down the mountain.  had a blast! came home and spent some time in my garage.  Mateus was in there wiping down his bike.  then he said “please come watch me ride my dirt bike.”  i said “of course!”   my new tires came in and my brother installed it for me.  brand new and ready for the mountains!   i installed my cell phone holder.  that way i can listen to music when i’m riding in the mountains.   Mateus is ready!  he said he can’t wait to grow bigger so he can ride a bigger dirt bike.  the sweetest papaya from Uncle Dino’s garden… and Uncle Dino cooked this fresh vegetables from his garden.  this was super delicious!   then the BBQ started going and we ate local style right off the grill.   grass fed kalbi from Molokai is the best.  just ask Toda-san because he couldn’t stop eating it.  haha. this was just one round of two.  and can you believe we at it all?  no wonder the beers were going down so smooth…when i first started diving, i use to take too much from the ocean.  it was more like a sport for me.  but after going to Molokai, everything changed.  i just take what i need and nothing else.  in this case, just one fish.  and it’s my responsibility to teach the next generation the same thing.  so hey kids, better not rape the ocean because i’m watching you…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide