Island Life Rules…

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went to surf with a special guest this morning at Diamond Head.  someone who’s not supposed to be in Hawaii now so i’ll just leave it at here.  we had lots of rides, laughs, and sprays!

then Nao-san is back so off the plane and into the ocean.  she’s supposed to be here and she knows how to enjoy each moment.  went for the challenge at Diamond Head and she was as comfortable a surfer can be.

paddling out on her own, figuring out the lineup on her own, and catching waves on her own.  this is a classic example of surfing with experience.  good job girl!

i had my foil drone and got the shot!  feel so good to be riding high above and watching amazing rides like this.

welcome back to Hawaii Nao-san!  you surfed so good and of course i’m so proud of you!   get ready for more days of fun in the sun!

when you’re driving around the the purest of nature, you look around and see things you will never see back home.  there are mango trees, lychee trees, avocado trees, papaya trees, and all kind of fruit trees everywhere.   this is how it use to be on Oahu until greedy people started to rape the trees.  that will never happen on Molokai.

so good to see nature at it’s finest.  just an abundance of food…

got hungry for opihi so we asked permission, picked a handful, and that was enough to make 5 people happy.

added some shoyu, grabbed a lime off the tree, and made special ponzu sauce.  it was delicious…

then these beautiful shells go back into the ocean and let nature do it’s thing.  i’m so happy to be able to share these kind of experiences with my friends.  we all can learn together how to respect the locals, respect the island, and respect the ocean.   this is how island life is supposed to be…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide