Presidents Mango Smoothie

283

 when i use to have disagreements with people, i’d either fight, or shake hands, or fight and then shake hands.  so yes, i was happy to see shaking of hands rather then bombing each other with nuclear weapons.  i know the world is split on this topic so i’ll just leave it as that.   huge South swell so decided to surf the best spot today.  and that best spot was right around the corner.  no parking in Waikiki on Sunday but we had all the free parking in the world.  and always good because Nao-san loves a new challenge. i pulled up to the yacht club and Toda-san and Takami-san were waiting for me at the gate.  how did they know i was going there?  haha…  well, they are like my family so they know exactly what i’m thinking. we passed by Bowls and it was freaking super good!   got a really good 12 shot sequence of Local Boy Shane.  if anyone knows his number, tell him to call me so i can get him the barreling photos.   bodyboarders having fun too.  as for us, we freaking scored the most perfect wave on the South Shore.  and since it was so big, it was actually uncrowded.  i guess we were lucky again Nao-san!   went to eat at my favorite restaurant in Chinatown.  we were so hungry that i totally forgot to take a photo.  never too late right?  haha… then went to cool off with a fresh mango smoothie.  it was so sweet and refreshing.  it’s mango season so why not eat mango!  i would love to have this every single day this Summer…then we went driving around to see this beautiful South swell do its thing.  watched surfing, and watched the pod of dolphins playing right outside the lineup.

Toda-san flew his drown and got the most amazing footage!  thank you guys for the wonderful day.  you guys must be tired, full, and sunburnt because i sure am.

passed by Diamond Head on the way home and noticed the swell is going down already.  tomorrow will be another wonderful day of surfing.  i can’t wait to see where we’ll end up!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide