it was another lucky day for the boys because our little secret spot yesterday was still a secret because only had a few surfers out. Namikoshi-san at Paradise! 
Tokukura-san was energetic like the day before. riding wave after wave after wave…
Namikoshi-san catching a super long left! 
and look at these big empty swells. it’s like riding mountains to yourself…
there were so many empty waves so i started making them not so empty. i was having so much fun too! 
saw my foil friend Dave out there. we could talk for days about foiling. 
thank you boys again! i can’t tell you how lucky you guys were to score 2 perfect days surfing on Mayuki…
then we we had a poke bowl for lunch.
then picked up Nao-san and let her chose where she wanted to surf. one option was a head high waves at Bowls with 20 other surfers out. or a secret spot with head high waves with nobody out. he answer was pretty simple…
when a big white wash is coming right to you, you can simple turn around and catch it. and if you can ride it and control your mind, you will have the best ride of your life…
then when you’re ready to stand up, do so and enjoy the ride… good job again girl…
sitting in the shade talking story about foiling, surfing, and life. when i see everybody smiling and happy, i’m smiling and happy too. life is pretty dam good guys…
