Drowning at the Red Sea Pupu Table!

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 WOW!!!!  Nakahodo-san made a request to surf at one of the secret spots i took him before.  how did he know it was solid 6′ and only 4 guys out???  good request man!    i short boarded and had a hard time paddling into the sets.  Nakahodo-san caught the sets with ease.  the right board for the right day!   one huge set came in and broke on everybody.  this guys leash on his Costco board broke and he started panicking.  he was screaming “HELP!!  I’M GOING TO DROWN!  HELP!!!”  i paddled up to him and said “hey, calm down!”  he was panicking and freaking out saying that he was going to drown.  i said “hey, i won’t let you drown so just calm down.  just relax and i’ll guide you in.”  it’s this guys lucky day because there are no lifeguards, and this spot is infected with huge tiger sharks.  i hope i won’t be seeing him out there for a while.  his friend paddled out later and said “thank you dude.  it’s time for my friend to invest into another leash.”  i told him “no, it’s time for you friend to invest in a brain.  there is no way he should have been out here.”   it’s kind of funny because Nakahodo-san saw the guy panicking and now understands why i always teach him not to panic.   i told him “you panic, you die.”   and if nobody was out this day, that guy would be dead for sure…  keep calm and you have a chance at least… thank you Nakahodo-san for the fresh andagi from Okinawa!   so moist and so tasty!  i felt like i was in Okinawa for a minute!   then i got invited to the Red Sea House in Kaneohe for dinner.  i already knew i would gain 10lbs in 30 minutes.  this is just the appetizer table.   fresh homemade ahi poke.  fresh ono sashimi with spicy ahi poke.   marinated aji with green peppers from Papa Crow’s garden.  when ever i come here, i feel like i’m coming home.  the Nakamoto Family is the perfect example of the perfect Japanese/American family in Hawaii.  so kind, so warm, so inviting, and so loving.  thank you always for sharing the love.  the kind of love that makes me feel so good…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide