TMT vs. Hawaiians

239

 the TMT project was supposed to start construction this morning on the sacred Mauna Kea.  it’s to look at stars and other planets?   i was in tears watching the Hawaiians that are protesting this plan.  how could you build a telescope on the top of a sacred mountain???   go build it somewhere else…  maybe at Disneyland…   with the goverment so out of control, i wouldn’t be surprised if they let someone build a 100 story hotel on the top of Diamond Head.  it’s all about money these days…  that’s pretty sad… it was another huge day in the ocean.  took out Kobayashi-san for the challenge of his life.  i told him “it’s super hard to get out today, but if you do, you will be rewarded with the best wave of your life.  i can guarantee that!”  then a mountain came, i yelled “go!” and he rode the best wave of his life!  that easy, and that happy!    then i told him to ride it all the way to the end.  just like this!  you won’t find a longer wave than this in Japan… nobody was out near us!  Kobayashi-san had the choice of any wave that came in.  it was a beautiful morning!   i wasn’t joking when i said i’m looking for the barrel again.  gosh, the search is getting exciting!!! good job Kobayashi-san.  i had no idea your wedding was tomorrow!  wish you a happy Hawaiian wedding day and a life filled with happiness!  and good waves too!   i just love this!  and i just love this more…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide