i haven’t gotten a big barrel like this in a long time. so taking off on a steep wave, and pulling into a big tunnel like this made me super excited. and i only had my 5’10 so i was hanging on for my life! 
if you ever get to see or experience something like this, you will fall in love with the barrel. nothing in the world beats this feeling. absolutely nothing…
i get shot out of the barrel, i pull out, and i fly over the back. kind of like foiling but much safer. haha. 
yes, i haven’t gotten this excited in a very long time. i’m going back to searching for the barrel. and if there is no barrel, i’ll be on the foil. haha… 
the waves were almost double overhead, strong current, and nobody out. so when Yano-san’s leash came off and he lost his board, i was amazed on how calm he was. very calm, and very cool! 
and just to make out to the lineup took about 30 duck dives, and lots of paddling. very easy for this man…
i follow surfers on the wave either behind them, or in front of them. so when i can see them enjoying the moment, i enjoy it too. only a surfer knows the feeling…
found a DaFin floating in the ocean. i was just happy that there wasn’t a leg attached to it. it’s the same one the lifeguards use in Hawaii. anyway, if it’s yours, give me a call and i’ll give it back to you. 
more nice rides for Yano-san in blue Hawaii. 
calm and cool! good job Yano-san!
