Take the SUN!

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 omg, it’s been the hottest summer ever in Hawaii.  big waves and super strong sun.  i want to surf more but i’m way to burnt!  my friend told me that Tokyo had less than 3 hours of sun in a 17 day span?  really?  i wish i can give you guys some sun because i’m hoping for rain.  then i can surf 2x more!   been spending time taking care of my baby.  when you have salt water, you will have problems.  so when you have problems, you can either pay somebody hundreds of dollars to fix it, or you can do it yourself.  i don’t like anybody touching my baby so i try to do as much as possible.   all it takes is a little common sense, and you can figure things out.  just don’t connect the wrong wire to the wrong place or you will get the shock of your life.  or worst, your baby will burn down… from exposure to rain water and salt water, these switches will stop working at any time.   and if that switch stops working in the middle of the sea, you could be in a lot of trouble.  so yeah, better have spares, and better know how to change it. this is a very important part for your boat too.  if it breaks while your boat is tied to the dock, you’re boat will be swinging around like a wild horse… went to the store, drilled bigger holes, and installed it.  guess how much this cost?  $73!!!  omg!   then went out to scrub the bottom.  something i love to do because i’m free diving and cleaning at the same time.  it’s therapy for me and i get to be out in the ocean.  and when i come up, i get to see things like this.  there is no place in the world i’d rather be… then turn 180 degrees around and see the most amazing sunset.  i had to open a cold beer and say cheers to my friends who are resting in the sea.  i miss you all so dearly…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide