Butterfish Kisses

195

 the waves have been so beautiful every single day!  long rides and smooth faces.  perfect for surfing or foiling.   Carter and i have a great time foiling.  we don’t compete against each other, we just push and support each other.  trying new things and figuring things out.  i like to ride behind because i love to take photos like this.  this is freaking beautiful!   and Carter just figured out how to pump from one wave into another.  that’s when this stuff gets addicting! i’ve been craving home cooking recently.  so one of my friends told me about this secret spot to get the best home made plate lunches and sandwiches.  and it’s right down my street?  it’s been there for 30 years and i didn’t even know about it.  but now, i’ll be there 4x a week.  i love it so much i won’t tell you where it is!  haha… i love kids and love playing with kids.  i use to put Kelia on my shoulders like this and she use to love it.  so i wasn’t surprised when Ena-chan loved it too.  haha.  and playing with Mauna-chan was super fun too.  i still can’t believe this girl surfed for 3 hours with me!  haha… Sora-kun is a little too big to put on my shoulders.  but i still have fun surfing and talking in English with him.  got a nice piece of butterfish from the Nakamoto’s house.  i can’t wait to marinate it and grill it!  i think i can eat this all by myself, and that’s what i’m going to do!every time we have a gathering at the Nakamoto’s house, Papa Crow says a few words before dinner.  this time, it was about our friends from Japan.  it was about how lucky we are to have friends, and how lucky we are to get together like this.  these moments are super precious and hopefully we will do this over and over again.  i just love the family feeling.  thank you to the Nakamoto’s for always inviting us over…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide