Buttery Ulu

9

I got the beach yesterday in the dark.  I was walking to the ocean and something startled me.  OMG, I almost stepped on a monk seal!!!  It was sleeping right in front of the bench.  

When I got in, the monk seal moved back to the beach and slept again.

This morning was so dark.  The parking lot was completely empty.

I spent a few hours cleaning and making sure Mayuki was ok.  The water was pretty brown from all the rain last night.

One of the uncles from Bowls gave me a breadfruit.  It’s called “ulu” in Hawaiian.  Gluten free, rich in fiber, vitamins A and C, calcium, and potassium.  

Put in in the oven, cut it open, and you will have a delicious meal.  It’s so soft, sweet, and buttery!

I attended a very interesting meeting and surely learned a lot.  I gained lots of knowledge from experienced seamen.

Trinko dropped off my new board today.  OMG, I can’t wait to try it!  Two more south swells on the way.  This summer is far from over…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide