good morning. wow!! solid north/west swell. waves look solid 6′ plus but the conditions look kind of morning sickness out there. no wind but a little mixed up. it’s 6:15am now and nobody’s out at pipe or lani’s. town is small but fun. a couple guys out at bowls surfing chest high waves in the poison water. the state posted contaminated water signs yesterday because of the recent rain washing our streets and shit into the ocean. that sucks for me because the last thing i want is an infected eye. no way man…. i’m taking another few days off from the ocean. thank goodness i jumped in yesterday.. anyway, have a nice and safe day…
we call these kumu’s and munu’s. or in divers language “goats”. i guess because of the 2 whiskers? these goats are the best eating fish in hawaii, and also the hardest fish to catch. why? you can’t find them. well, unless we take you to our secret spot. then i’m going to have to spear you right after the dive. haha…
wanted to thank kyle for sending me this photo last night. another shot of a happy diver showing off his teeth. and get this, i forgot to brush it that morning. haha… gosh, i’m so happy. it’s amazing how the ocean can pass on so much energy to me. and i felt so clean that i didn’t take a shower last night. haha.. just joking.. see, i can finally joke again. and once again, sorry for being a bitch for these past 2 weeks. that wasn’t me, it was somebody else….
ok, now this is not a joke. our stock market is screwed up. yeah, the smart people that saved money for their retirement just lost 40% of the value in the past year. and the not so smart people that didn’t save money are up shit creek. we had almost 600 house foreclosures in september alone. and the worst ain’t over yet. that’s crazy….
everybody follows america’s lead. and when our stock market crashes, the rest of the world follows. the japanese stock market hit a 20 year low. and to imagine, that was one of my many dreams. yeah, to be a stock trader on wall street. i could imagine how stressed those guys on the tokyo stock market are right now. hang in there boys. let’s get the ball rolling again. i wish i could put on a suit, hit wall street, and make it happen. i don’t like to see people suffering financially. it’s not a pretty sight….
