Surf or Dive?

193


this morning, i had to make one of the biggest decisions in my life. surf or dive???? my day back in the ocean, what should i do? dead winds, sunny skies, perfect for surfing or diving. decisions, decisions, decisions….

after 10 seconds of contemplating, i chose to dive. why? because there’s a north/west swell coming wednesday. plus, if you seen the kind of waves i surfed in indonesia, you wouldn’t want to surf yet either. and when your surfing, you have to deal with other people trying to snake your waves and stuff. but underwater, it’s just you and the ocean. can’t beat it….

so it was off to kaneohe to hook up with kyle nakamoto and james oshiro. felt like we were on our boat trip in indo again….

i went out only to get wet and jump in the water. i had no idea we were even going to catch fish. especially after indo. we ended up spending some quality time catching a lot of quality fish. cheese!!! it’s been a while since you guys seen my teeth right? that’s because i haven’t been smiling too much lately. see what the ocean can do to ones soul… from now on, it’s all teeth baby….

after diving, i went straight to nijiya market to pick up the ingredients for tonight’s dinner. wish you were here….. have a great evening…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide