Soil of Many Countries…

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 ok, i try to take underwater photos like this to see if i’m teaching this right.  when a big wave comes, throw your board to the side before your dive!!!  if you just jump off your board, it will be close to you and who knows what the ocean will do.  in this case, the fins barely missing an ass.  if you throw it behind like you’re supposed to do, this will never ever happen.  the dive in perfect, but the surfboard isn’t…  got it?  i pass by Leonard’s everyday and the line is getting longer and longer.  one and a half hour wait to buy a $1 malasada?  most of these tourists don’t know that there is a much better malasada just up the street… the Hawaiian movement is gaining momentum world wide.  and it ain’t going to stop anytime soon… i opened my fortune cookie and it read “You will step on the soil of many countries.”  really?  wow, i’m looking forward to traveling again!!!   and i can’t wait to see the pure and innocent faces in the world like this.  this was in the Maldives where people are very happy.  that was 15 years ago so i’m sure these girls are on their iPhones by now?  but i surely hope not…2020 is the Tokyo Olympics and i’m just wondering how people are going to compete in the heat?  i couldn’t even walk 2 minutes without feeling like i was going to faint.  i haven’t felt that kind of heat anywhere else in the world.  i would never carry an old ladies umbrella but without it, i’d be dead…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide