A Crazy Afternoon at the Beach…

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 gosh, my days have been so long that i have to divide it into 2.  yesterday afternoon was amazing just like the other afternoons.  high tide and perfect open waves.  i took out my foil so i got some shots like this.  Hattori-san on the DT nose rider… different angle, different day.  i’m following from behind hoping he doesn’t fall.  abunai… you won’t find another photo like this unless you have a $1,000 drone and a sweaty man controlling it from the beach.  haha.  good job surfing Hattori-san! Seira-chan was out practicing on the longboard.  we have a big event coming up next week so we must practice hard, and have fun at the same time… the  great thing about Seira-chan is that she listens very well.  if i say something, she will adjust in just one wave.  it’s that fast… once again, my beautiful foil drone shot!   peace girl!  keep living a happy and healthy young life like you have been doing… then the magical evening session with Oshima-san.  before we paddled out, he asked me how many times i surfed today.  i said this is my 3rd round.  he said i’m crazy.  Seira-chan said the same thing.  haha.  how can this be crazy when everybody is having so much fun???  life is short so why not enjoy each and every moment with each and every surfer…  but in the end, i think i’m crazy too.  haha. i just love watching people surfing better and better each day.  and also keeping so calm like this.  that’s what keeps me so motivated… now we’re practicing how to do off the lips.  coming real soon… if you’re in the ocean from Kewalo’s to Queen’s and hear 2 boys laughing out so loud, that’s us.  haha.   i would never have thought the day would come when i can teach surfing while i’m foiling.  and also take photos at the same time.  it’s a whole new experience by doing a bottom turn on a foil followed by an off the lip.  i have to keep calm myself so when my students watch me, all they have to do is copy it.  super simple…i haven’t foiled in a long time so it felt good to get up on my first wave and feel like i’m actually surfing.  i’m still feeling like a free bird…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide