back to Round 2 yesterday: so happy to see Renta-kun back in Hawaii! i’ve been taking this kid surfing for many years and now he’s a 15 year old boy that has a body of a man!
more power, and lots more confidence. this kid use to be nervous in the ocean, but not anymore…
so stoked to see him surfing and enjoying the surfers life just like his Papa…
and smiling the whole time, just like his Papa…
Papa Oshima-san knows how to be confident and calm. making drops like this super easy…
and the perfect bottom turn. look at the spray coming off the surfboard. this is what you want to see.
great surfing Oshima-san! such a good example for your son!
Renta-kun started to figure it out and once he did, he could ride big waves like his Papa…
surfing can be very dangerous and for that reason, i’m pretty strict with my students. we’re not surfing in the inside and catching 2 inch swells because that’s no challenge. we’re actually on the outside surfing real waves with real locals. so yes, i’m always trying my best to keep it safe and respectful. BUT, sometimes, there will be an accident just like this. i saw it happening before it even happened. and when it did, i made sure Renta-kun was ok. how? i just look at his face and then i’ll know. thankfully, he was smiling so that means he’s ok…
next, i’ll look to see how mad my local friend is. if you surf Bowls, you probably seen this local yelling at guys, chasing people in, and even fighting. luckily we’ve been friends for 30 years so he would never hurt any one of my students. maybe scare them, but never hurt them…
then last, i will paddle by and apologize to the local because no matter what happened, it’s always going to be my fault. it’s my responsibly to teach my students manners and respect. i think this is the most important part of surfing that people forget. anyway, i apologized to my friend, and i’m sure Renta-kun learned a lot today. and this is the reason i tell all my students not to surf Bowls without me because if i wasn’t there, things would have turned out much differently. it’s a scary thought. but this day, luckily we all went home happy and safe…
