Round 1: met the coolest kid this morning. Musashi-kun surfed a few times in Hawaii before but today was the biggest he’s tried. after a few waves in the inside, i knew he was ready for the big sets!
and every wave, every smile…
this are the kind of photos i’m looking to get. but nobody knows the risks of trying to get a super nice photo like this. i have to position myself really close to get a full frame shot like this. and yes, it looks very calm and perfect at this moment…
than all it takes is one slip of the board and the danger begins…
have you ever had a 11′ hard surfboard hit you in the head?
i have many times and maybe that’s why my memory is so bad these days…
but as i teach everyone, if you fall, get back up and try again. great time surfing with you today Musashi-kun! and you almost got to see a local vs. local fight today too! you lucky boy!
Round 2: then it was surfing with the Oshima-san boys. first was Papa on a beauty!
the waves were super good again this afternoon. photos don’t lie…
Ojiro-kun wanted to surf with us today so i threw a board in the truck last minute. smaller board than normal, and much bigger waves than normal. it was the first time i seen this kid a little nervous.
but once he caught a set, he popped right up and turned to the right. it was amazing!!!
then Renta-kun popped up and surfed 2x better than yesterday. he was flying!
and he was smiling…
the great reward of teaching surfing is watching the kids grow. growing up into fine young men that love the ocean. i’m so happy to be a part of their lives…
Round 3: it’s contest day tomorrow so i took Seira-chan out to Queen’s to practice. it was her first time surfing there so there was a lot to learn. and omg, the surf was amazing!!! the most beautiful photos posting soon. 3 rounds at 6 hours in the hot sun again so my brain is waterlogged. goodnight for now…
