had to go to the North Shore to pick up a bunch of new boards. so, stopped by my favorite egg shop! you won’t find a fresher egg than this on Oahu. sukiyaki and raw egg over rice all week! yeah!lucky me! then stopped by Maui Mike’s for the best chicken on the island. never frozen and always juicy! then to the dark room. routine blood tests and exams for people my age. in a week, i’ll know if i have cancer or not… i’ve grew up and lived in Hawaii for over 50 years. so yes, i’ve seen all the changes that’s happened here. some i liked, and some i disliked. it’s my opinion and only my opinion. for the next generation of kids, i don’t preach or make them take sides. i just take them along and let them see things with their own eyes. then they will grow up and make their own judgement. which ever it is, i will respect 100%.
as a surfer, the thing that most use to upset me was when white people from the mainland would come here and buy multi million dollar beachfront properties. then they think they automatically own the beach too. no i’m not a racist, but this is true and if you live on the island, you will know what i’m talking about. i’ve gotten asked to leave beaches thought out my life and i never did. why? because there is a law that protects our oceans. absolutely no beach in Hawaii can be bought for any amount of money. done…so when my friend sends me this video of this lady trying to kick off a guy on the beach where he was fishing, i got upset again. she told him she has guests coming over to her rental so he has to leave. this happens all the time and i’m glad this Hawaiian didn’t move. instead, he posted this video. it’s not about hate, it’s about educating the local peoples rights, and it’s about educating that no beach on any island is private. so if you come from other parts of the world and think you can simply buy a beach front property and own the beach, sorry it doesn’t work that way. i hope this never happens again because as a surfer, it makes me upset. next time i go to Hawaii island, i’m going to fish on this beach and sunbath naked. haha!