i gave Seira-chan 2 options this morning. AM with lots of people, or PM in a peace. and she chose PM. i knew it would be empty and i knew the waves were going to be perfect. why? because of the tide, wind, swell, and crowd. it was freaking paradise!
and since it was Seira-chan’s first time riding this board, i told her to take it slow and adjust to the board. she already knows that surfboards don’t adjust to people. haha. adjust and enjoy the ride!
if you had a longboard today, you would have been in heaven!
super long perfect rides until your legs start hurting.
and if you’re a foiler, you’re in double paradise! Carter always encourages Seira-chan, and he always speaks English to her too. super good guy to have around and have fun with…
by the way, a lady surfer i know just paddles out and says to me “you better not come near me with that foil!” then she paddled right in front of me and tried to catch the wave i waited 15 minutes for. i should have told her “if you don’t want me to come near you with my foil, then you should stay away from me!” BUT, i kept silent, kept on foiling, and she caught her next wave in. Seira-chan, Carter, and i had the dream session, and she had a nightmare one. haha…
i was on my foil too and this is the photo i was hoping for! good surfing and good feeling girl!
yeah, look how crowded Bowls was!!! haha… you lucky girl!
lots of surfers don’t understand that trying all different kinds of surfboards will make you a better surfer. you have to be able to adapt to it because it won’t adapt to you. and once you figure that out, you can ride anything!
last ride of the perfect afternoon. good waves, only a couple people, and amazing rides!
when i was 20 years old, my life wasn’t half as good as Seira-chan’s. i use to take everything for granted, but this girl appreciates every single moment. and that’s how you live a very happy life…
