Really Calm is Really Cool!

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who told everybody that the waves were good yesterday???  seemed like everybody knew today!  but hey, let’s all enjoy it together!    it’s been a crazy road to foiling.  when i first started, i was so frustrated that i was going to fly to Maui and pay $400 for a lesson.  back then, if somebody told me i can do an off the lip one year later, i would have bought him a brand new car!  but since i didn’t have to pay that somebody that kind of money, i can buy more foils!  haha…i’ve been teaching Seira-chan how to be calm.  so i’m flying right by her on my foil and she’s been pretty calm compared to other people.  haha.  i keep on telling her that “calm is cool.”   and if you want to study how to be calm, watch rookie Seth Moniz surf huge dangerous surf against the worlds best.  when he was matched up with World #1 Filipe Toledo, i knew he was going to win.  why?  because Seth can beat anybody in real waves like today.  sorry Filipe… “calmness and coolness equals greatness!”  Seth knows that very well… so as the clock was ticking down to one of the biggest upsets of the contest, i was yelling and screaming from my house.  i couldn’t be neither calm, or cool.  haha…something that bothered me was how close the boats in the channel were.  i hope they back off tomorrow because it would suck if a competitor gets hurt right after he gets the wave of his life.  close call for Seth… yeah Coach Rainos.  sorry i couldn’t be with you this time.  i actually looked for a flight just now but i wouldn’t make it there in time.   i’ll be watching all day tomorrow… Seth not only won, he dominated!  Filipe Toledo had zero chance the whole heat!  tomorrow morning is finals day and the waves should be good.  i’m watching this for sure!  Go Seth Moniz!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide