omg! the evenings have been soooo good! every single right and left have been peeling perfectly. look at Nao-san and Seira-chan go!!!
Takami-san on the magic board going left. Toda-san on the magic foil going right.
Seira-chan surfing better and better each day. nobody can believe that this girl has only been surfing for 2 1/2 years. that’s unbelievable!
super poised and super good style.
since Toda-san and Takami-san were pro surfers and also JPSA judges, i asked them what kind of advise would they give Seira-chan. they both said “she already surfs good. everything looks good already!” i was so happy to hear that! and i bet Seira-chan will be happy when i tell her that…
Nao-san’s also only been surfing for a couple years. now she can paddle out and catch waves on her own. that’s huge progress…
and now she won’t look at me when i’m foiling beside her so i can kind of trust her for not falling and hitting me. i said “kind of.” haha..
high risks equals high returns. this is a one of a kind shot…
Takami-san’s been surfing more than ever. and the more is proving to be better!
Toda-san is like a kid again. i’ve surfed with him in the most perfect 8′ barreling waves in the Mentawai’s before, but i haven’t seen him happier than he is right now. it’s crazy how the foil brings out the kid in all of us…
we were sitting in the lineup waiting for a wave. then i thought to myself, “this was my biggest dream, and now i’m living it.! my dream of connecting Japan and Hawaii like a rainbow is real. Seira-chan, Takami-san, Toda-san, and Nao-san were all surfing together enjoying the moment. laughing and smiling the whole way. so yes, i’m living in my dream i dreamt up 30 years ago. that’s freaking amazing…
when Toda-san started foiling, i was trying to help him as much as possible. mostly because i felt sorry for him. haha. i know the struggles and i knew it was all mental and he would overcome it someday. and now that he’s past the mental part, he’s progressing super fast. so now he’s on his own. i’m not going to help him get better than me. that would be foolish of me right? haha…
