when i take everybody to my secret spot, i tell them there is absolutely no photos allowed. i just try to get just one for the memory. and since you won’t find out where it is through these photos, it’s ok. look at Nao-san almost getting barreled! someday girl! we pulled up with us 2 surfers and 2 foilers. one of my heavy local friends was out. he is much older than me and i’ve seen him punch people at Bowls before. he’s wild and crazy if you don’t know him, but the coolest guy if you do. as soon as we paddle out, he said “hey Kirby, you know the rules right?” i told him “yes i do.” the rules are not to bring any people i can’t trust out here. then he said “ok, good. but if somebody says something, just let me know and i’ll take care of it.” OMG! scary… back to Bowls yesterday. Father and Daughter enjoying the golden Hawaiian moment… Matsumoto-san is hooked on surfing. he started 10 months ago and has gone every single week ever since. i it really makes me happy to surf with people that just got addicted. i want them to get good waves so they get more addicted! haha.. then Kana-chan started riding long waves and even turning right. and she was smiling the whole way! when i take Father and Daughter surfing together, i am so happy that they gave me the opportunity to create a bond that will last forever… happy rides and happy life…
i’ll catch up to todays action tomorrow morning. been so busy that i’m falling behind! but today was another amazing day of beautiful photos…