been loving the high tide mornings because it’s perfect for my foil, and perfect for my photography…
i can get higher than usual so i can see more of Nakagami-san’s beautiful bottom turn.
and when i want to pull back, i can get normal photos of Tatsu-san like this.
and i can ride along and cheer you on!
Seira-chan is very smart when she surfs. BUT, it doesn’t matter how smart you are when you have beginners in the water running you over. i saw a Japanese guy on a longboard totally ram into her. it was pretty scary…
luckily Seira-chan didn’t get hurt. i was really worried and actually had to yell at the guy. now i feel a little bad. i should have just taught him the right way to surf. if i see him again, i’ll apologize…
oh, now i remember why i was so mad at the guy! he put a big ding in my magic board!!! omg!!!! it was actually a good learning experience for Seira-chan. if his board hit her body this hard, i’d be taking her to the hospital. so yes, the ocean is dangerous when you have dangerous people in it. we have to be very careful…
she was feeling down but then the smile came out again. there is no reason to be sad because this is part of surfing. and this is the reason i’m always keeping an eye on everybody. there’s just been too many beginners out there that shouldn’t be out there without a guide. it’s been so dangerous!
finally got the foil shot i was looking for on my last wave. good job Tatsu-san!
thank you boys for the 4 days of Boot Camp. you guys got so much better and now i want to apologize for all the yelling and scolding i did. it worked so no regrets here. haha.
then had another Boot Camp class this afternoon with Nagasawa-san. you should have seen the stoke on his face!
last night i slept at 8:30pm, tonight i will try to sleep at 8pm. good sleep and good long exciting days…
