The Sixth Sense

268

some people have great sense.  one of them is Kuruhara-san.  the last time he surfed was with me 2 years ago, and today he was surfing better than ever.   and i noticed he’s been smiling a lot more this time too.  it’s amazing what confidence can do to a person.  great job Kuruhara-san.  what ever you were doing in the past 2 years, keep it up!   then it was 9 year old Shuta-kun’s turn.  this kid has a lot of sense too!  he knew exactly where to put his hand to pop up.  just like this!   and from his first wave, he surfed each and every one perfectly.  last time we caught 7 waves, this time we caught 14!   look at his style!!!   this is what i love most.  just taking a kid in the ocean and playing in this beautiful playground.  good job Shuta-kun!  i just love surfing with you all these years… a wonderful family and a wonderful day.  thank you guys for making my day great!   in the past 3 days, 3 surfers paddled up to me and said “is that the same girl you were coaching at the contest at Queen’s?”  i said “yes.”  they all said, “wow, she got so good!”   she’s not only good, she’s great!  i was watching her surf at Bowls and she was just flowing with the ocean and doing beautiful turns like this.   Seira-chan has great sense and that’s why she can do anything she strives for.  i’m super happy of her progress because she’s making me look good too.  haha.   keep on ripping girl and thank you for the blueberry muffins today.  i totally forgot to take a photo!  so delicious….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide