gosh, i haven’t seen this in a while. frost on my windshield this morning! that means it’s finally cooling down. 
i’ve been surfing with Shin-san in Hawaii for 15 years. most times we surfed the waves were small or windy. but today, we got lucky. it was neither small or windy. it was the total opposite! 
we surfed a secret spot for over 4 hours straight! Shin-san caught 35 waves, and so did i! it was so good that we didn’t want to leave… 
so when we left, there was still nobody out. but we needed food! haha… so happy to see Shin-san super healthy and super energetic. and super surfing good! 
Micah let me try his board and it worked really good! i felt like i was surfing in the 80’s again! 
since we couldn’t take photos at the secret spot, here are a couple from the other evening at Diamond Head. Shin-san on the classic bottom turn! 
nice ripping! and keep on ripping! 
on the way back in, we saw all the rubbish in the ocean at Bowls. yuck… 
i guess somebody lost their sofa? 
after a 4.5 hour session, us surfers get very hungry. so went to my favorite beef stew pho restaurant! thank you Shin-san for the amazing day. i’m so happy we finally got to surf the secret spot with nobody out. very very rare… 
omg, this is the best! 
then this afternoon got hot again. 37 degrees? omg! when will this Summer heat end?
