4 + 5 + 2: Doctors, Surfers, and Tigers!

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 today was a full boys day out in the sea.  started off this morning with these 4 doctors from Japan.  all specialists in what they do and now brand new surfers specialist too!   Ryu-san surfs really good.  he can paddle out and surf on his own.  just don’t get in his way.  haha… Ryu-san surfed many times before.  but the other 3 doctors surfed today for their very first time.  i was so stoked to show them the way to have a wonderful time!   Dr. Nishiike-san got up super fast and was surfing from the first wave.  look how calm and cool he is!   Dr. Minoda-san caught a pretty big one today.  i’m pretty sure he was surprised on how fast he was going! Dr. Miyamoto-san had the ride of his life!  smiling the whole way!   i’m very happy how cool Dr. Ryu-san has become.  a very happy man, a very calm man, and a very cool man.  i enjoy each and every ride with him… the 5 of us boys and a blast this morning.  i respect Doctors a lot because they help people.  and i respect Doctors who surf even more because they challenge themselves and have a happier life.  and a happier life is a healthier life… nice to meet you guys.  welcome to the no stress world of surfing!  and hope to see you guys again.  tomorrow is Ryu-san’s last day of Boot Camp so i’m going to be stricter than ever.  haha… after i dropped off the surfer boys, i went to meet up with the diving boys, all 5 of them.  i have millions of stories about our full day of diving, but that will have to wait because i’m falling asleep.   all i can say is our day was filled with deep water, fun, fish, tuna rice, apples, and 2 big tigers.  yes, 2 big Tiger Sharks came to visit us.   this one was 10′ plus, and the other one was 8′ plus.  i’ve never seen 2 tiger sharks in one day before so this was special for me, and for the rest of my dive buddies.  a day we will never forget…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide