i love when people want to surf early in the morning. it’s the absolutely best time. first of all, nobody is out. second, you have to go by feel. third, you learn so much about the ocean. and last, it’s the best way to start out the day…this is my view when i’m surfing. it’s just the moonlight, city lights, and us…i was riding behind Ryu-san on this long ride. you can’t see him right? i could barely see his silhouette but we where screaming the whole way. i took Minoda-san surfing for the first time in his life a month ago. and now this was his second time. he was kind of wondering how we would surf in the dark, but once he caught his first wave, he was super stoked!if you surf in the dark, you can have the whole surf spot to yourself. in this case, we had Ala Moana Bowls all to ourselves. then when it gets lighted, surfing couldn’t get easier. amazing surfing from Minoda-san!Ryu-san is getting better and better by the day. he loves Boot Camp and loves the challenge. i can’t wait to take him out on a huge day!Nao-san is connecting more and more to the ocean. this is how you go with the flow.
we all got out of the water at 8am and had a full day ahead of us. the boys caught a flight back to Japan, and Nao-san and a full day ahead in paradise. that’s what you call living life to the fullest…